Here Fishy Fishy Fishy!

Days 18-20

Darwin feels like home away from home. Apart from it being rather muggy ALL THE TIME. Some days you feel like you need to carry a wet flannel around with you to wipe your face off every five minutes and this is the dry season.

That being said we love visiting Darwin. This is our second visit and it has changed heaps since we were here 6 years ago. They've built a waterfront area with a wave pool and a swimming lagoon so that you can now swim in the sea. Normally you can't due to jellyfish, sharks and croc's.

We always book a motel for Darwin, which makes us feel like we're having a little holiday within a holiday. Lots to see and do in Darwin and it was Timmy's Birthday on the second day. Happy Birthday Timmy!!! We still have your birthday card. Maybe we'll post it home for you.

We stayed at the Vitina Motel with Simon and Em, while Tim & Mimi and Matt & Sylv stayed at the Freespirit Darwin Resort. We didn't get to see their place but apparently it was pretty good.

We had a lovely time in Darwin, eating out every night (Shenenigan's, Alaturka and the Lizard Lounge) and exploring during the day. We found a park called Leanyear Reserve which had a water playground, three water slildes and a swimming lagoon. I'm not sure who had more fun the kids or the 'big kids'. Best of all it was totally free and you could stay as long as you like.

Day 2 for me was taken up with an all day deep sea fishing charter with Tim & Mimi for Timmy's birthday. I love being surrounded by nothing but water, soaking up the sun and feeling the wind in my face. I could have gone again the next day, except my arms were aching. Apparently the day before they hadn't caught anything but at our first location we started reeling in some big Jew Fish. I caught the first big fish which was about 12 kilo and over a metre long, and they just kept getting bigger from there. Tim's birthday present was a 15 kilo Jew Fish and a lovely Golden Snapper that Mimi caught. In the photo above my fishes are the two on top. The biggest fish was caught by Lisa from Victoria and was 23 kilo!!

Thanks heaps to Captain 'Jack' Charlie and Deckie Adrian from Darwin Reef n Wrecks Fishing Charters for an awesome day. Thanks also to our European and NZ backpackers who provided all the entertainment (including falling/jumping from the boat into the lock for a dare)! At the end of the day we headed off to the Mindl Beach Market to watch the sun go down then ate at Alaturka Turkish Restaurant for dinner. I had the best mushroom sauce on my chicken I've ever had but the fried icecream was quite strange and not what we're used to. Bring on Kublai Khan fried icecream any day!

We finished off our mini holiday with a sunset cruise on the Darwin Harbor on the Spririt of Darwin. It was a bit cloudy to start with and I was worried that we wouldn't get a nice sunset and any good photos but we were not let down.

Back at the motel we started to pack up all the food crates and put on the last load of washing but that all got interrupted when I could smell marshmallows cooking and we discovered that one of the crates on the kitchen counter had been put on top of the stove and it had accidentally been turned on. Needless to say we now have a perfectly round hole in the bottom of the crate and had to throw out quite a few things. The nutrigrain container also melted and there was burnt nutrigrain left on the stove. I think we were lucky that the weetbix box was in a tin as I'm sure it would have caught fire.

With everything repacked in a replacement crate, we're just putting the finishing touches to the rest of our packing before we leave Darwin and head for Litchfield National Park. Surprise Creek Falls - here we come!!!

El Questro & Katherine

Days 12-16

When we stay in one spot for a couple of days I end up with too many photos to fit them all in and forget to take notes for the blog so if things seem a big hazy that's because this bit was over a week ago. First photo is the view from our campsite at El Questro then Zebedee Springs then a lookout on the Explosion Gorge Track, then Emma Gorge and finally the caravan park at Katherine.

After leaving the beautiful Bungles behind we drove back to Kununurra for a quick restock then headed off again to El Questro Wilderness Park which is a private Pastoral Lease.

According to the information the owners provide, El Questro doesn't actually mean anything. The story goes that the two brothers who pegged the claim for the land in the mid 1950's were reminded of stories of the red bluffs of New Mexico and the Rio-Grande and wanted a spanish sounding name. Apparently a mate wrote down some words that roughly translated to 'land of great beauty and big mountains'. However apparently the two brothers then hit the town to celebrate and lost the piece of paper before they lodged the claim, and ended up coming up with a spanish sounding name instead.

El Questro is around a million acres in the Kimberley's and contains some spectacular scenery. There is a township with a store, restaurant, shower, toilet & laundry facilities and general campground then there are quite a few private campsites along the river named after Australian birds and animals. We were lucky to get the last one which was called Kite and was quite a way from the township on the other side of the river. I've included a photo of the view from the campsite. Image driving down your driveway and having to cross a river every day. :-)

We managed to fit quite a bit into our couple of days. After spending the first night settling in and the first morning doing all our washing and making good use of the lovely warm showers, we drove a couple of 4WD tracks to Pigeon Hole and Branco's Lookout as well as a bit of Explosion Gorge. We also got to spend a morning at Zebedee Springs, a series of warm springs surrounded by palm's, very tropical. We had dinner at the Steakhouse on Friday night which was very nice then joined in the township BBQ Dinner on the Saturday night.

On our last afternoon we drove to Emma Gorge but unfortunately it had closed for the day. Also one of the drives we had planned to do, which was a 100km round trip passing through private property, was also closed so we rejigged the trip itinerary yet again (Plan B 4.0?) to fit Emma Gorge in the morning, a final quick stop in Kununurra (third time this trip) and then camp somewhere on the side of the road as close to Katherine as we could get. I didn't do the walk but waved my family off with the rest of the group and settled in for a lovely morning reading my book under the palms at Emma Gorge Resort.

On our previous trip I did a good number on my ankle, tearing the tendons on both sides of my foot when I fell, ending up at Halls Creek Hospital for x-rays and crutches. Unfortunately my foot has started to cause me some grief on this trip as well. It doesn't hurt too bad when I walk on flat ground but when I walk over rocks or on paths that go uphill or downhill (stretching the tendons) I can guarantee it will be throbbing by the end of the day.

That night we found a fantastic little spot just off the side of the road and decided that we would have an 80's night. With Simon's ipod hooked up to our stereo we spent a great night singing along to 80's music and trying to remember as many 80's films as we could. This carried on the next day over the CB as we drove through Timber Creek, Victoria River Downs and onto Katherine.

We stayed at the Big4 Katherine Low Level Caravan Park and it is a fantastic park to stay at. After setting up the tents and doing a bit of shopping we spent lots of time just lazing by the pool. Unfortunately we weren't able to canoe Katherine Gorge like we'd planned as that morning they had found two salt water crocodiles in the river and it was closed. Hundreds of fresh water crocs inhabit the river but they are more docile that the salties, so we had to make other plans.

We had dinner one night at the Park's Fig Tree Bistro and listened to a bit of bush poetry and country music for entertainment. We got to explore Cutta Cutta caves which are really, really nice and made me think we should go and explore the Limestone Caves in our own backyard down in the south east at Naracoorte, SA.

All in all a very pleasant week.

The Bungles

Days 9-11

Just short of Kununurra is a quarantine inspection point as you are not allowed to take fruit and vegetables, plants, soils and some nuts into Western Australia. After eating half a dozen apples on the drive in we gave up and handed the last three over to the inspectors along with a squashed tomato and a handful of lettuce and several apple cores.

We stocked up at Kununurra with both petrol and food then headed off towards the Bungles in Purnululu National Park.

The Bungles are something you really have to see for yourself some time. As you can see from the photos there are some great gorges to walk through. We started with the Mini Palms Walk which was 5km return and ended with several flights of stairs leading to a viewing platform. Most of the walk was easy going through dry rocky creek beds or sandy paths but the further into the Gorge you go, you start climbing around, between and over boulders. Great fun.

We skipped the Echidna Chasm walk in the afternoon to spend some time back at camp with our feet up enjoying the sunshine. Also had a lovely shower in the re-tardis (Em’s pop up change/shower tent). No one was really hungry that night so we just had sausages for tea.

The next morning we headed out a bit earlier so we weren’t walking through the heat so much, although it was certainly cooler than the day before. As we drove towards the other side of the National Park much of the landscape actually reminded us of the Flinders Ranges with the exception of the massive termite mounds and bee-hive shaped domes.

After a quick stop at the airfield to book our helicopter flights for the afternoon we headed to Piccaninny Creek Carpark for the walk to Cathedral Gorge, which is about 3km return. The family photo I’ve included was taken inside Cathedral Gorge (thanks Matty).

After lunch back at camp we headed back to the airfield and took a 30min helicopter flight over the Bungles. Joshie, Simon and I were in one cute little helicopter with no doors, and Chris, EJ & Sylvia were in the other. WOW – words can’t describe the feeling and the view. Sometimes it was like we were just floating over the ranges then a gust of wind would shake the copter and remind you how high up we were and open everything was. I’m glad it was a 30min flight as it took me a while to feel at ease with the wind blowing us around. Joshie loved it…..”I can see my house from here!!!!”

Back at camp – pasta and blog sauce for tea – then lots of packing ready for an early morning start. Back to Kununurra to top up food/petrol then off to El Questro.

Goodbye NT……..Hello WA

Today’s destination was about 460km away at Keep River National Park, and would be our last night in the Northern Territory for a few days. We spent most of the day driving on dirt roads, which of course are our favourite, second best only to wet dirt roads!!!

Our drive took us through Jasper Gorge and we started to recognize some of the scenery, in particular one of our campsites from the last trip, as well as the unusual Kimberley Rose. We hit the bitumen just short of Timber Creek where we took our first photos of the lovely Boab trees that frequent the NT and the Kimberley’s.

After an altercation with a bee, not sure if Simon’s tongue will ever be the same again, we headed to Keep River NP which was really crowded and we were lucky to find a spot to fit us all. Tuna Mornay and salad for tea as we had to use up all our fruit & veg before crossing the border the next day.

Plan B 2.0 & Wine/Cheese Night

Day 6

Well because of all the rain the Tanami Track is still closed so it’s onto Plan C, although since we’ve got the Plan B t-shirts and stickers already made up I’ve decided to call it Plan B - 2.0 J

We decided to head further up the Stuart Highway towards Katherine, about a two day journey, and then head into Western Australia and the Bungles via Kununurra. The first leg of the drive was non-eventful and we pulled off the side of the road, near Attack Creek, after about 570km, to set up camp.

This was our first wine/cheese night a tradition that started on our previous Top End Trip. On the first night out from a major shop we’d pull up early, set up camp and then everyone would bring out some cheese, dip, crackers and other nibbles to share and their favourite drop to drink. Now most of us don’t drink wine so why we call it wine/cheese night I don’t know but some traditions must be upheld and we all get excited when it’s wine/cheese night.

As they go this one was relatively quiet and after a dinner of sausages and mashed potato we were all in bed fairly early, that is until someone (not mentioning any names Matty) exploded a tin of tomatoes in the fire – also a tradition from the previous trip. Unfortunately this was probably one of the best explosions we’ve had yet and it showered hot bits of tomato and cinders across the whole campsite. Needless to say we spent the next 20mins running around putting them all out and Matt spent an uncomfortable night watching the bushes for signs we’d missed any.

Day 7

It was a beautiful night – not very cold at all - and in the morning we broke out the ¾ pants and sandals. Still needed the warm jackets in the morning, but the weather was definitely warming up.

While we were driving yesterday we spoke to a lady on the CB yesterday and she said that the Katherine Show was on and that accommodation was really hard to find so we decided to give it a miss and head off-road instead (Plan B 3.0). We turned off the Stuart Highway just after filling up at Dunmarra, and headed down the Buchanan Highway towards Gregory NP and Keep River NP just shy of the WA Border.

We stopped for the night at Top Springs, about 470km away, where the Buchanan Highway crosses the Buntine Highway. Top Springs was a lovely place to stay – right in the middle of nowhere - and we found out that 6 of the 7 staff as well as the owners came from South Australia. There was one particular feature of the facilities at the campground that we found quite unique. Each of the two toilets was home to a frog – one was a giant grey/brown frog and the other a shiny green one. The only thing was you didn’t find that out until you flushed and saw a leg, or in one instance half the body, come out from under the rim then tuck back in again. Very funny!!!

Most of the boys spent some time working on their vehicles doing bits and pieces. Chris had to take the starter motor out and clean it up a bit, because twice during the day the Landy hadn’t started without giving it a good wack.

Terrayaki Chicken and rice for tea – apparently everyone’s favourite so far – then a shower and bed. No visitors in the shower thank goodness – the green kind I don’t mind it’s the eight legged variety I can’t stand.

Nice warm night so we left all the doors and windows open and just had the screens zipped up.

Where the ? is Alice

Day 4

Bacon and eggs is always a good way to start the day and they cook them pretty good at the Marla Traveller’s Rest. We all had a much better sleep than the night before so we we’re up and packed and ready to go at a reasonable time.

We stopped at the SA/NT border and took some photos similar to the ones we took last time so we could compare how much the kids had grown. No sturt desert peas there this time – the place was swarming with them last time.

After a quick toilet stop at the rest area near the Finke River, which was flowing strongly, we stopped for lunch at the side of the road. It was the first time we’d had to make lunch so out came the sliced meat (salami, ham & turkey) and cheese and bacon rolls. The awning on the side of the car is fantastic and provides us with shade no matter where we are. Would recommend one for anyone with a 4WD travelling long distances.

Alice is only about 420km away on the main highway so it made for a pretty easy day. The caravan park was jam packed but we found a little corner for the group and set up for our 2 night stay.

Day 5

We had surprise visitors during the night. Matty and Sylvia had driven all the way from Adelaide to Alice to join us at the last minute and arrived about 1.30 in the morning. The group was now complete.

FREEZING, FREEZING cold in Alice every morning. Went to bed almost fully dressed and woke up several times during the night to water dripping on my face from the condensation. (Mental note – in future don’t turn the mattress sideways in the tent and put some extra pegs on the tent in really cold weather).

Had a great day in Alice. Bought and sent postcards to my Nana, Mum and Dad, our neighbour Jan and my work (Hi everyone – hope all you had fun at planning day today – sorry not thinking about work AT ALL!!! J) Spent the rest of the day buying bits and pieces. Bought some meat from the butcher (chicken, sausages and rissoles) that we had cry-vaced so that it will last for about 2 weeks in the fridge. Did a bit of top up food shopping at Woolies and Coles and bought a fold up strainer for rice and pasta, some extra pegs and a peg bag.

We also bought some shade cloth to put under the tent to keep dirt off the bottom of the tent and to wipe your feet before you go in. Hopefully that will keep the sweeping each morning to a minimum.

Had some trouble with our Red Arc Battery Management System which got a bit of a drenching when we drove along the Oodnadatta Track after the storm. Nothing would charge and one of the battery’s was flat. After a lot of mucking around we still haven’t been able to fix it, but because we took a powered site we were able to keep everything we needed with enough charge.

We had a lovely group dinner at Bojangles, and waved to everyone on the web cam. Next time must remember to ring someone up and get them to have a look and see if they can see us.

All in all a good couple of days.

What 50mm of rain looks like…..in the outback

Day 1

Our first day of adventuring was uneventful and we had perfect weather for driving, about 625km in total. After lunch and a diesel top up at Pt Augusta we headed out with Simon & Em to our first campsite at our usual place hidden off the side of the road, about 17km past Glendambo.

The kids had great fun collecting firewood and setting up their new mattresses and sleeping bags. They’ve grown since the last trip so we had to leave behind the Barbie and Bob the Builder sleeping bags for some new Black Wolf ones that go to -6 degrees - very handy for our first night. Also replaced the thin self inflating mattresses with small swag mattresses which the kid said are much better and actually pack down much smaller than we thought.

It was really cold but a roaring fire kept us warm while we waited for Tim and Mimi to join us in ‘The Reverend’. Had to start using up some of the meat we brought with us so it was standard camping fare for tea – sausages and bread followed by toasted marshmallows!

Day 2

In the morning we left the Sturt Highway and hit the dirt for the first time heading for campsite number two, about 485 km away, at Duff Creek on the Oodnadatta Track about 50 km up the road from William Creek.

Duff Creek made for a very pretty campsite. The creek was empty but there was a lovely old bridge nearby that used to be part of the old Ghan line. We had Pasta and bolognaise sauce for tea and went to bed fairly early.

It was not as cold as the first night but then the storm hit! Got about 4 hours sleep that night and not all at once. The rain was sooooo loud and pelting at the tent sideways! Had to get up once to go to the toilet (not much fun in the rain) and twice to put our tent annex poles back up (think we’ll use two guy ropes each one next time).

In the morning the campsite wasn’t flooded but the road was. We spent the morning driving in and out of floodways full of water and along some very long muddy tracks – a 4WDriver’s dream road. At Oodnadatta we filled up and caught up on all the news. We’d had about 50mm of rain during the night. The road we wanted to Mt Dare was closed and so was the way back to William Creek so the only option was head to Marla for the night then straight up to Alice Springs via the highway.

1 day and 7 hours till we leave........but who's counting!

Hi my name is Tiffany, I'm from South Australia and live with my husband Chris and two kids Emily (11) and Josh (8) and we're about to head off on a four week camping/4WD adventure holiday with a group of friends.

This is my first post for this trip, which will be our second trip to the Top End, hence the name Top End 2.

We we're originally planning to head to Cape Yorke but the Queensland flood waters took care of that, hence Plan B. Apparently there's also flooding now on the Tanami Road so Plan C is also being discussed, but at the end of the day it's all about getting out and enjoying our beautiful country so it really doesn't matter where we go as long as it is out bush.

I started this blog to help us remember this incredible trip because last time we went the kids were 5 and 2 and they really don't remember anything at all. We visited so many places in WA, NT and SA over 8 weeks that even when I look at the photos I get confused about which waterfall or rock pool it was and where.

Not much to say at this stage except the second to last load of washing is on, all the non perishable food is packed and all the equipment is piled up ready to load into the Landy as you can see in the photo.

Just a quick bit of last minute shopping tomorrow for some bits and pieces and the perishables, hand over the keys of the house to my brother who will be house sitting for us, pack the car and head out first thing Sunday morning.

Woo Hoo! Can't wait.